![]() I think they used locktite and reefed on them to where they were almost impossible to get of, but eventually did but that lower guide pin, not so much. In the process, discovered issues with a few other parts, the brake bracket had the guide pins totally stuck, I could not get the lower out out, at all even with an impact cordless drill, it barely got the 2 14mm (I think) bolts that hold the brake pad bracket in place, thanks to Midas when they did my brakes in 2016. I saw a video where a guy tried to remove the axle using a 20Lb press and could not get it all the way out without excessive resistance since the bearing was too far gone. ![]() The reason I'm removing the axle is the entire assembly needs to be replaced due to a bad bearing that has caused the axle to seize to the hub/knuckle assembly as many strikes later with a mallet at the axle, I got it maybe to budge half an inch, if that and it should be a few whacks to free it from being torqued down and then you can push it with your thumbs all the way back until it stops before you rotate the steering knuckle to remove the axle completely from the knuckle/hub assembly before you remove the entire knuckle assembly to get the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in. and the swings are small and via wrists, with my left arm helping assist. It's taken me days of swing a hammer/mallet on said cup to remove the CV axle to avail, it moved, maybe an inch or so but it's taking a long time to get there. With tire removed I can reach back to the axle jack and the CV joint cup OK through the wheel opening and that's it. I don't and have the car up as high as we need to get it with the factory jack and 2 jack stands so the car is on the stand's lowest setting. Way more expensive than replaing the half shaft.I'm now in the middle of removing the CV axle on the passenger side from the jack shaft spline since removing it all the way back at the transmission is one impossible (no room and can't reach) but also, even the Mazda P5 manual says to drain the transmission (true?) before popping the jack axle from said transmission (sport stick auto) to start with, but do show removing the CV axle via the jack shaft spline with a rod and a mallet, but assumes you have room for a proper swing to do it. The only visual way to confirm that would be to remove the half shaft, clean and disassemble the joint, and examine the surface of the balls. If the protective boots are torn (they usually fail in the inside folds of the bellows and finding a tear requires pushing the bellows sideways and looking for one", and there’s noise, it’s a pretty sure sign of a damaged joint. “packing” the joints will not repair the damage.īeyond that, checking that the half shafts are “tight” is not a valid way to check for bad CV joints. If the lubrication is lost and/or contamination gets in, damage occurs to the surface of the balls, the slots, and the “races” that keep the balls in their places. In simplified terms, the shaft (axle assembly) Constant Velocity joints are constructed sort of like a ball joint with slots in both portions, in which are balls that move within the slots as the shaft portions rotate at an angle relative to one another. The damage to the wear surfaces of the half shafts cannot be corrected by repacking them.
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